French-girl style has one muse it keeps coming back to, and that's Jane Birkin. The British-born actress and singer moved to Paris in the late 1960s and ended up defining a look that still fills moodboards and street style photos. Her off-duty uniform of white tees, worn denim and a woven basket bag became the model for dressing that looks instinctive rather than planned. Barefoot on the Riviera or at a premiere in a sheer mini, her approach didn't change: relaxed, personal and very much her own. The 25 outfits below follow her best-known looks from daytime basics to her bolder evenings, with the fit notes I'd give anyone copying them today, so you can bring that insouciant Parisian energy into your own wardrobe.
Seventies Cuts on a Modern Body
Copying an outfit from a fifty-year-old photograph is harder than it looks, because the cuts and fabrics have changed. Vintage jeans were rigid cotton with almost no stretch, and they sat right at the natural waist. Most modern jeans sit lower and stretch more, so the same flare can look flatter and less defined.
- Look for a rise that reaches your navel. That's what makes a tucked tee look like hers.
- Pick denim with little or no stretch. It holds the flare and fades the way her jeans did.
- Size vintage pieces by measurement, not label. Older sizes run noticeably smaller than current ones.
- Choose cotton tees that have been washed several times, or buy one size up and wash them hot once to soften.
Her slim build suited very short hems and sheer knits. If that isn't your shape or comfort level, take the attitude and adjust the length. A mini with opaque tights or a crochet dress with a slip still reads as Birkin.
1. White T-Shirt and Flared Jeans Outfit Jane Birkin
This is the Birkin look people copy most. A slightly oversized white cotton tee, high-waisted flared jeans with a real fade, and a wicker basket over the forearm. She tucked the tee loosely at the front and let the back hang. Flat sandals or low heeled mules kept the leg long. The point is that nothing looks new: jeans that seem years old and a tee soft from washing. I hem flares like these with the shoe on, so the denim just touches the ground at the back. A thin gold chain and a messy fringe complete it.
2. Denim Cutoff Shorts Outfit French Girl Summer
Few photos capture her summer ease like the 1972 Saint-Tropez family picture: tiny frayed denim cutoffs, a white tank and lace-up espadrilles. The shorts sit high on the waist and are worn out by living, not by design. Tousled hair and no visible makeup are the only extras. The espadrilles, the kind you'd pick up in Spain or the South of France, add rustic texture and are easy to walk in. Lace-up espadrilles can dig at the ankle, so I tie them over the bone rather than on it. Tuck the tank fully or let it skim the waistband, and carry a straw basket to the water.
3. Black Mini Dress and Knee High Boots Outfit
At the 1969 premiere of the film "Slogan," she wore a black long-sleeved knit mini so sheer that camera flashes showed everything beneath, and later said she hadn't realized. It ended a few inches below the hip and went with layered gold chains and glossy black patent knee-high boots with a modest block heel. The boots gave the dress a mod, 60s sensibility that kept it daring rather than crude. For now, I'd choose a knit mini that's opaque in flash photography; test it with your phone's flash before you leave home. Add shiny knee boots and long pendants, and keep hair and makeup simple.
4. White Crochet Dress Outfit Jane Birkin
In 1973 she went to a Paris gala in a floor-length white crochet dress worn back to front, so the deep neckline plunged past her navel, held by a black beaded brooch. Long sleeves, open stitching and an ivory tone made it feel romantic, almost bridal, which softened the daring cut. Flat sandals and her basket bag made it oddly casual. A crochet maxi still works for summer weddings and beach parties today. Crochet stretches when wet and when hung, so I store these folded and add a nude slip for any formal setting. One vintage brooch is all the jewelry it needs.
5. Breton Stripe Shirt and Jeans Outfit French Style
She helped make the Breton stripe a pillar of French dressing and wore hers with complete ease. A navy-and-white long-sleeve marinière, slightly relaxed, with straight vintage-wash jeans and black ballet flats is the off-duty base. Roll the sleeves, leave it untucked and add a thin red lip if you like. The boat neck gives a nautical hint without tipping into costume, though it does widen the shoulders, which suits narrow frames best. She carried the basket with this too, all year round. A trench over the shoulders adds polish.
6. Trench Coat and Jeans Outfit Parisian Style
A beige trench was one of her most worn coats. Her version: a double-breasted cotton trench open over a white tee or light sweater, cuffed straight jeans and soft ballet flats. She never belted it tight or fussed with the collar; it just hung and moved. An unbelted trench only looks right if the shoulders fit, so that's the first thing I check. It handles in-between weather and travel days. Swap the flats for low ankle boots when it's colder, and add a loose silk scarf. The basket still goes with it.
7. All Denim Outfit Jane Birkin Double Denim
She wore double denim long before it was a trend. In the early seventies she was photographed in an open studded denim jacket over a simple top with flared patchwork jeans, head to toe in blue and still relaxed. The trick is contrast: a lighter jacket over darker jeans, or the reverse, so they don't merge into one block. When I put this together, I keep at least two shades of difference between the pieces. Flat leather sandals or worn sneakers keep it casual. A few layered chains and air-dried hair with a center-parted fringe finish this weekend look.
8. Oversized White Shirt and Wide-Leg Pants Outfit
Later in life she went more androgynous: an oversized white button-down with wide tailored trousers or relaxed jeans and white canvas sneakers. The shirt was soft and a little rumpled, sleeves rolled, a few buttons open. The trousers sat at the natural waist and broke just over the sneakers. A shirt that's oversized in the body but too long in the sleeve looks sloppy rather than relaxed, so I roll sleeves to just below the elbow and keep the cuffs crisp. A loose leather belt and a canvas tote finish it.
9. Babydoll Dress Outfit Jane Birkin 70s
The babydoll mini was her signature through the late sixties and early seventies. These dresses had a high empire waist, short puff sleeves and a flared A-line skirt to mid-thigh, in florals or soft pastel solids. She wore them with flat strappy sandals or low Mary Janes, basket bag always in hand. Empire waists can make a full bust look like a bump, so on a curvier figure I'd choose a babydoll with a slightly lower seam. For modern wear, choose a cotton or linen babydoll dress in a muted floral or gingham and add barely-there sandals.
10. All White Lace Outfit Jane Birkin
In 1970 she appeared beside Serge Gainsbourg in an all-white outfit that's still referenced constantly: mid-rise white jeans with a cropped white lace top with flutter sleeves and eyelet. A slim leather belt at the waist, two or three long gold chains and the basket bag finished it. Flat sandals kept attention on the denim and lace. White lace over white denim shows what's underneath, so I'd pair it with a skin-tone bralette rather than white. It's a romantic choice for a summer evening that never feels fussy.
11. Knit Shorts and Fur Coat Outfit Winter
She had a talent for odd pairings, and her winter short shorts are one. Fine knit shorts in cream, camel or heather grey went over opaque black tights, under a big fur coat. Brown or black knee-high leather boots made a long, unbroken leg despite the short hem. It has a playful seventies jet-set feel. For today I'd use a long wool wrap coat in a neutral and a crossbody instead of the basket. Knit shorts seat out at the back quickly, so a lined pair holds up better.
12. Military Coat and Knee High Boots Outfit
In cold months she often wore a structured military-style peacoat in navy or olive, the double-breasted buttons and sharp shoulders giving shape to her soft wardrobe. Under it, a plain sweater or turtleneck tucked into high-waisted jeans, with black or dark brown knee boots. The coat's menswear edge balanced her long hair and fine features. Peacoats end at the hip, so they work best with high-rise jeans; a low rise leaves a gap of sweater. The basket came out even in winter. It's structured, warm and unbothered.
13. Gingham Dress Outfit French Riviera Style
In her late-sixties Riviera years, on screen and in holiday snaps along the Côte d'Azur, she wore a checked gingham mini that sums up Riviera ease. Thin straps, a fitted bodice and a short flared skirt in blue-and-white or black-and-white check. She often tied a printed silk headscarf under her chin or around her hair. Flat sandals and the basket finished it. Gingham at this scale is busy, so I'd keep everything else plain. Wear it on holiday or for a beach lunch.
14. Silk Blouse and Tailored Trousers Blazer Outfit
For dressier moments she mixed tailoring with softness. A cream or ivory silk blouse tucked into high-waisted tailored trousers with a straight or slightly flared leg, under a fitted black or navy blazer. She never buttoned the blouse all the way, which kept it from looking stiff. Silk slips out of a waistband, so I tuck it into the trouser lining or use a bodysuit style. Low block heels or pointed flats lengthen the leg, and a structured leather bag, hers famously covered in stickers and charms, adds a personal touch. It suits gallery openings and dinner parties.
15. Denim Jacket White Tee Jeans Outfit
She often added a blue denim jacket over the white tee and jeans. The jacket was slightly oversized, well worn and never buttoned. A plain white crewneck tucked into high-waisted straight or flared jeans made a clean base. Flat sandals or white low-tops keep it moving. The white tee acts as a buffer between two denims, and I'd still keep the washes clearly different. Add a leather belt with a simple buckle and a canvas tote for errands, coffee or weekend trips.
16. Crochet Mini Dress Outfit 60s Style
Besides the floor-length gown, she loved short crochet minis with the boho feel of the late sixties. Open patterns, floral or geometric, often worn with very little underneath. Long pendants that swing, flat strappy sandals or Mary Janes, and the basket finished them. I'd buy one lined, or add a short slip; openwork crochet is more revealing in sunlight than in a shop. It's fun for summer festivals and holiday evenings when you want to feel a little daring.
17. Velvet Dress and Basket Bag Outfit
At Cannes in 1974 she wore a pink velvet gown with long sleeves and a wrap bodice, belted at the waist with pearls. Typically, she carried her woven basket with it, and the mix looked natural on her. Nude heeled sandals and very little jewelry let velvet and straw share the attention. Velvet shows every crease and crushes when you sit, so I steam it just before leaving rather than ironing. For your own version, a jewel-toned velvet dress in a simple shape with a straw or rattan bag makes an evening look that doesn't take itself too seriously.
18. Cashmere Sweater and Bootcut Jeans Outfit
Photos at her English home in the mid-seventies show her preppy side: a fine cashmere or merino V-neck over a collared button-down, bootcut jeans and black ballet flats, hair tucked behind her ears. The visible collar makes it look a little academic. It's easy to recreate with a light sweater in camel, grey or navy over a white oxford, front loosely tucked into jeans with a gentle flare. A thin sweater is essential here; a thick one bunches the shirt collar and pulls it out of shape. I'd wear it on any cool, dry day.
19. White Sundress and Espadrilles Outfit
Her summer wardrobe was full of simple white sundresses worn with lace-up espadrille wedges or flat sandals. Light cotton or linen, spaghetti straps, a relaxed body and a hem somewhere between upper thigh and knee. Nothing looks forced. Messy fringe, sun-warmed skin and a straw basket are the only additions. Thin white cotton yellows if it's stored dirty, so I wash these before putting them away for the winter. Pack it for a holiday in Provence or a countryside weekend; it handles a hot city day too.
20. Tuxedo Jacket and Jeans Outfit French Girl
She borrowed from menswear often, and a black tuxedo jacket over a white tank or tee with straight jeans was one of her evening formulas. The jacket brings polish; the jeans keep it informal. Pointed flats or low block heels and a few silver or gold chains add some shine. Choose a slightly slouchy jacket and push the sleeves up. Satin lapels mark easily, so I store tuxedo jackets on a wide hanger with nothing pressed against the front. A small velvet clutch or her basket finishes the contradiction for dinners and galleries.
21. Matching White Top and Shorts Set 70s
A matching white top-and-shorts set from the seventies is one of Jane Birkin's most beloved summer looks, and it still gets copied in fashion shoots. The set had eyelet or broderie anglaise detailing, a relaxed button-up top and shorts to the upper thigh. She wore it with flat leather sandals and the basket, white against tanned skin. Matching sets are easiest to buy together, since separate whites rarely match. It's retro and current at once, for holidays and rooftop dinners. Add a thin gold bracelet and tousled hair.
22. Striped Breton Top and Wide-Leg Pants Outfit
As a twist on Breton and jeans, she also wore striped marinières with high-waisted wide-leg trousers in beige, cream or soft grey. The wider leg gives drama while the stretchy cotton stripe keeps it relaxed. Espadrilles or flat sandals, a thin leather belt and fine chain jewelry finish it. Fitted top, full trouser, flat shoe is the French balance. Wide trousers in linen crease at the lap, which I accept as part of the look. Roll the cuffs once for a casual finish.
23. Plaid Blazer and Mini Skirt Outfit 60s
In the late sixties she took on the mod mood with a plaid or checked blazer over a simple mini skirt or mini dress. The blazer had some structure at the shoulder and a relaxed body, often in muted earth tones or a Prince of Wales check. A plain turtleneck or crewneck knit went under it, with patent knee boots or Mary Janes. The blazer should end above the hem of the mini, never below; otherwise it looks as if you're wearing nothing underneath. Add opaque tights in cooler weather and a small structured bag. It covers brunch and casual office days.
24. Cargo Pants and White Sneakers Outfit
Later on, her style turned androgynous again: cargo pants with a V-neck vest or tank and crisp white tennis shoes. The cargos sat at the natural waist in a relaxed straight leg, a practical counterweight to her softer pieces. An oversized shirt worn open became a light jacket. Cargo pockets add bulk at the thigh, so I'd skip them if you prefer a slimmer line through the hip. White low-tops keep it comfortable for long walks through Paris. Swap the basket for a canvas tote and add a simple watch for travel and errands.
25. Pink Velvet Gown and Nude Heels Outfit
To finish, back to Cannes 1974: the pink velvet gown with nude heeled sandals and, yes, the wicker basket on the red carpet. The gown had long sleeves, a soft wrap shape and a pearl-trimmed belt at the waist. Velvet next to woven straw became one of her best-remembered images, and it shows that style is about knowing yourself, not following rules. For your own version, choose a jewel-toned velvet dress with simple lines and light heels. Carry whatever bag feels most like you, designer or market find.
Keeping a Wicker Basket Bag Going for Years
The basket bag appears in almost every look above, so it's worth looking after. Wicker and rattan dry out and crack in heat, and they go soft and misshapen in rain. I keep a basket out of direct sun when it's not in use and stuff it with paper so it holds its shape.
If it gets wet, blot it with a towel, reshape it by hand and let it dry slowly at room temperature, never on a radiator. Wipe it with a barely damp cloth rather than washing it. A cotton pouch inside stops small things falling through the weave and keeps keys from snagging the strands.
Which of Her Bolder Evening Looks Still Work Now
Her sheer mini and backwards crochet gown were daring for any era. The practical way to wear them today is to keep the shape and add coverage underneath. A nude slip under crochet, a lined knit mini or a skin-tone bodysuit under lace keeps the line and removes the risk.
The velvet-and-basket idea needs no adjusting at all. Pairing one dressy piece with one rough, everyday one is still the easiest way to look relaxed at a formal event. I'd try it first with a velvet or satin dress and a plain straw bag, then experiment from there.
Her Look Was Never About Perfect Clothes
Jane Birkin's style lasts because it was about personality, not perfection. Her clothes were part of her life, not a show. Her tees were rumpled, her jeans worn soft, and her basket bag went everywhere from the market to the red carpet, and somehow it all made sense. The 25 outfits above turn that into things you can actually wear: flares with a white tee, a crochet dress with a brooch, a trench over ballet flats, velvet with straw. The common thread is ease and confidence rather than any one garment. She once described her look as a mix of French polish and English not-caring. Wear what feels like you, and wear it often.
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