I keep coming back to the button-up shirt because it changes character with very small moves. Tuck it and it's office wear; knot it and it's weekend; leave it open and it's a jacket. The mistake I see most with curvy clients is sizing up until the shirt hides everything, which just makes you look bigger. A crisp cotton shirt can carry a workday, a soft linen one is the one I'd pack for summer, and an oversized poplin works as a layer over tanks, dresses and wide-leg pants. These twenty outfits are full looks, with notes on how I'd wear each shirt.
Tucks, Knots and Sleeve Rolls That Change a Shirt
Most of the outfits below rely on a handful of small styling moves. Here is how I do each one, and who it suits.
- Front tuck: tuck only the front panels, a few inches either side of the buttons, and leave the back out. It marks the waist without the bulk of a full tuck, and it suits most body shapes.
- Full tuck: everything in, then lift your arms once so a little fabric blouses over the waistband. It looks sharp with trousers and skirts but adds bulk under thick waistbands.
- Front knot: tie the two front tails together at or just above the waistband. Good with high-waisted skirts and wide pants. Skip it if the shirt is short, since the knot pulls it up further.
- Open layer: wear the shirt fully unbuttoned over a fitted tank or dress. Choose a shirt a size up so it hangs straight down and creates a vertical line.
- Sleeve roll: fold the cuff up once to make a wide band, then fold the sleeve up again so the cuff edge just shows. It stays put better than plain rolling and stops just below the elbow, where most arms are slimmest.
If a shirt won't stay tucked, the issue is often length. Shirts that end at the high hip slip out as soon as you sit down. A longer shirttail stays in much better.
1. Plus Size White Button Up Shirt With Wide Leg Jeans
Wide leg jeans let a crisp white shirt keep its shape without anything feeling tight. I fit the shirt at the shoulders and bust first, then use a front tuck to make a waist. Tuck only the front panel, just to the left and right of the placket, and let the back hang; it gives shape without the full-tuck bulge. Leaving the top two buttons open makes a V that softens the collar. High-rise jeans, pointed flats or loafers, gold hoops. If the shirt still looks boxy, roll the sleeves to just below the elbow.
2. Plus Size Striped Button Up Shirt With Black Trousers
Stripes against black trousers are an easy workday outfit. Thin blue or gray stripes look classic and read almost solid from across a room; wide stripes look more relaxed. The stripes should line up at the placket and the shoulder seams, which is a sign of a well-made shirt. I'd half-tuck it into straight black trousers that skim the leg. A leather belt pulls it together. Loafers or ballet flats for the office, sneakers for errands.
3. Plus Size Oversized Button Up Shirt With Leggings
Leggings need a shirt long enough to cover the seat, which usually means a size or style labeled oversized or boyfriend. What makes it look intentional is a crisp fabric. A thin, floppy shirt over leggings reads as loungewear; a poplin or oxford holds its collar and hem. I roll the sleeves to the forearm and leave a couple of buttons open, or wear it open over a fitted tank. Loafers make it neater than chunky sneakers. A curved shirttail hem looks better here than a straight one.
4. Plus Size Button Up Shirt With Midi Skirt
A fitted shirt over a full midi skirt is a classic balance: close on top, volume below. A full tuck shows the waist best, but shirts tend to creep out of skirt waistbands when you sit and stand. Tucking the tails into your underwear or wearing a bodysuit-style shirt keeps it in place. If you'd rather not, knot the front over the waistband instead. Satin, pleated, denim or cotton skirts all work. Block heels or ankle boots, and layered necklaces in the open collar.
5. Plus Size Denim Button Up Shirt With White Jeans
Denim shirts are stiffer and heavier than cotton ones, and I'd choose that carefully. A medium-wash denim shirt is warmer and holds a rugged shape; a light chambray drapes more like a regular shirt and is better in heat. With white jeans, the blue sits brightly against the white. Wear it tucked, open over a tank, or tied at the waist. Check the bust buttons on a denim shirt in particular, because denim has no give and will pull. Tan sandals or brown loafers.
6. Plus Size Linen Button Up Shirt With Palazzo Pants
Linen breathes like nothing else in heat, and a shirt in it pairs naturally with palazzo pants. Linen creases quickly, so I treat the wrinkles as part of the look. If you want fewer, a linen and cotton or viscose blend holds its shape better. Palazzo pants should sit high on the waist and drape over the hips. A front tuck stops the two loose pieces merging into one shape. White, beige, olive or pale blue. Espadrilles and a straw tote.
7. Plus Size Button Up Shirt With Straight Leg Jeans
This is the outfit I'd suggest to almost anyone, whatever their age or style. Poplin is smooth and crisp; oxford cloth has a slightly textured weave that hides creases and feels softer. Either works with medium or dark straight leg jeans. A full tuck with a belt looks sharper; untucked with rolled sleeves feels relaxed, so long as the hem ends around the hip. Loafers, white sneakers or ankle boots.
8. Plus Size Black Button Up Shirt With Faux Leather Pants
A black shirt with faux leather pants is a sleek, almost evening outfit. The fabric of the shirt decides how dressy it is: satin is the dressiest, crepe sits in the middle, and poplin is the most casual. Faux leather has a sheen, so I'd pair it with a matte shirt unless you want the full night-out look. Open the collar a button or two and tuck it in. A chain necklace adds shine. If all black feels heavy, a camel coat or a cream bag breaks it up.
9. Plus Size Button Up Shirt With Tailored Shorts
Tailored shorts with a shirt look smarter than shorts and a tee. High-rise shorts with a relaxed leg opening avoid pulling at the hips and thighs, and a length around mid-thigh or just above the knee is the most comfortable to walk in. Tuck a crisp white, striped or pastel shirt in, or tie it at the waist. A belt and a woven bag finish it. Flat sandals or platform slides keep it casual.
10. Plus Size Button Up Shirt With Slip Skirt
Satin slip skirts are soft and fluid, and a cotton shirt gives them structure on top. I like the contrast of a matte white shirt against a shiny black, champagne or olive slip skirt. Bias-cut slip skirts cling at the hips, so I check for a slightly heavier satin that drapes. Tuck the shirt fully, or knot it at the waist to keep fabric off the hips. Strappy flat sandals or ballet flats, small hoops.
11. Plus Size Plaid Button Up Shirt With Cargo Pants
Plaid looks rugged with cargos, sometimes too rugged. Softer, muted plaids keep the outfit modern. If the cargos are wide and roomy, the shirt needs some structure through the shoulders, or the whole outfit reads shapeless. Wear the shirt open over a fitted tank, or button it with a front tuck. Flannel plaids add warmth in fall; lightweight cotton plaids work in spring. Sneakers or lug-sole loafers and a crossbody.
12. Plus Size Satin Button Up Shirt With Wide Leg Pants
Satin shirts drape beautifully but they show everything underneath, including bra lines and sweat marks. I always suggest a nude, seam-free bra and a fabric weight that's not too thin. It should drape over the bust and stomach rather than cling. High-waisted wide leg pants in black, navy or chocolate balance it. A soft tuck rather than a tight one keeps the satin looking relaxed. Pointed flats or mules. It suits work and dinner equally.
13. Plus Size Button Up Shirt With Denim Skirt
A denim skirt with a button-up is a weekend outfit, and the skirt's length sets the mood. A denim midi feels more covered and structured; a knee-length skirt is lighter for heat. Denim doesn't stretch much, so a front slit makes walking far easier on a midi. A white, striped or chambray shirt tucked in shows the waist; tied at the hem it's more casual. Sneakers or ankle boots.
14. Plus Size Button Up Shirt With Blazer And Jeans
A shirt under a blazer has to be thin enough not to bunch at the sleeves. I check this by putting the blazer on over the shirt and reaching forward; if the shirt cuffs ride up or the shoulders feel tight, one of them is wrong. A crisp white or blue shirt, tucked into dark jeans with a belt, is easy. Leave the blazer open for a long vertical line. Loafers or pointed flats. Good for casual offices and meetings.
15. Plus Size Button Up Shirt With Knit Vest
A knit vest over a shirt is preppy and warm without the bulk of a full sweater. A V-neck vest opens the neckline, and the shirt collar lays over it. The vest should not be tight; a fitted vest stretched over the bust looks strained and pulls the shirt with it. Let the shirt hem show an inch or two below the vest. Straight jeans, tailored trousers or a midi skirt. Neutral vests look classic; colored ones are more playful.
16. Plus Size Button Up Shirt With Maxi Skirt
Maxi skirts flow from the waist, and a cotton or linen shirt adds a little crispness against that softness. I look for a maxi with a flat front waistband rather than heavy gathers, which add width at the hips. Tuck the shirt, knot it, or wear it open over a tank. Flat sandals or espadrilles, and check the skirt doesn't touch the ground in them. Good for travel and warm weather when you want coverage.
17. Plus Size Button Up Shirt With Utility Pants
Utility pants are practical and structured, so the shirt can be simple: white, blue or striped. Bulky thigh pockets add width at the hips, so I'd choose flat side pockets and a relaxed straight leg. A half tuck shows the waist. Olive and tan with a white shirt is the easiest color combination. Sneakers or flat sandals, a belt bag or crossbody. Roll the sleeves to keep it from looking sloppy.
18. Plus Size Button Up Shirt With Matching Pants
Matching shirt and pant sets give a long, unbroken line from shoulder to ankle, and that's the reason I suggest them to clients who want to look taller. Linen, cotton, satin or soft woven sets all work. The shirt needs room through the bust; the pants need an elastic or smooth flat waistband. Worn apart, the shirt goes over jeans and the pants with a tee, so a set is really three outfits. Sandals or sneakers, hoop earrings.
19. Plus Size Button Up Shirt With Sleeveless Dress
A button-up worn open over a sleeveless dress acts like a light jacket, adding sleeves without the weight of a cardigan. It works best when the shirt is a size up so it hangs freely. Tie the tails at the waist to define a straight dress. A white or chambray shirt suits solid dresses; a solid shirt calms a busy print. Sandals or sneakers in summer, ankle boots when it cools. It makes a dressy dress casual enough for daytime.
20. Plus Size Button Up Shirt With Monochrome Outfit
Monochrome with a shirt means one color family from collar to shoes, and the trick is varying texture. A cream poplin shirt with cream wool trousers and nude flats looks soft; black on black with denim and leather looks sleek. Same-colored fabrics with the same surface can look like a uniform, so mix matte, sheen and texture. A belt or bag in a contrasting finish breaks it up. It's comfortable and looks considered.
Poplin, Oxford, Twill or Linen on the Hanger
Shirts that look similar on the rail can behave very differently by mid-afternoon. The weave is the first thing I check on the label.
Poplin
Smooth, crisp and lightweight. It looks the sharpest but wrinkles easily, so it needs pressing. A poplin with a little stretch moves better across the bust.
Oxford cloth
A slightly heavier, basketweave texture that softens with washing and hides creases. It's less formal than poplin and very forgiving for daily wear.
Twill
You can spot the fine diagonal lines. It drapes well, resists wrinkles better than poplin and is often used in non-iron shirts.
Linen and linen blends
The coolest in heat, but it creases the moment you sit down. A blend with cotton or viscose keeps most of the breathability with fewer wrinkles.
When I iron a shirt, I go collar first, then cuffs, sleeves, the back and finally the two front panels. Ironing it slightly damp is quicker than fighting a bone-dry shirt, and hanging it straight from the dryer saves half the work.
A White Shirt Is Where I'd Begin
No single rule makes a button-up work on a curvy body. Fit at the shoulder and bust, the right fabric for the day, and a deliberate tuck do most of it. If you're starting from scratch, I'd buy one crisp white cotton shirt that fits well at the shoulders, then add a satin or linen one later. Try it with jeans, a midi skirt and over a dress before you buy anything else. That one shirt will tell you which shapes and tucks suit you.
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